The 2009 Harmony Landscapes Alabama Native Tree Fall Color Awards

Most folks I know tell me that Fall is their favorite season of the year. I’m in complete agreement. If you ever happened along an episode of Family Feud and the question was, “reasons people say Fall is their favorite season”, the answers would probably read something like this: “Out of one hundred people surveyed! 2 people said –the school year starts, 8 said – Halloween & Thanksgiving, 32 said- football season, and 58 said - leaves turning” [host then smooches the contestants]. With the colorful fall foliage being so popular, I've decided to present certain trees with awards.
As far as criterion to receive my award is concerned, it’s just this: all trees must be native to our part of the state. So, for example, dogwoods are in and crape myrtles are out, even though most crape myrtles offer excellent fall color. Figuring out what constitutes a native tree is an interesting question, but for now, we'll just say it's got to be a tree you might see while strolling through the Alabama woodlands.
So, on to the awards!

Best Early Color – Dogwood (Cornus florida) – dogwoods are one of the first trees to turn and if they managed to get through the spring without too much leaf spot damage, the dark red colors (especially if highlighted with some of their bright red berries) is a sure sign that Fall is here. Another plus with dogwood is their ability to hold on to leaves and give an extended show. Runner up: black gum (Nyssa sylvatica)
PHOTO RIGHT: Dogwood












Best Red Overall – Red Southern Maple (Acer rubrum) – I’m sort of partial to the non-hybrid, old fashioned, Southern red maple. There is a little more variation in color, with reds usually dominating, but Southern red maple can also give us beautiful oranges and yellows. Runner up: Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboretum)

PHOTO BELOW: Southern Red Maple Best Orange Overall – Southern or Florida sugar maple (Acer barbatum) – I don’t recall seeing this tree in local nurseries, although, I could be wrong. Florida sugar maple is a nice change of pace from the oft used Southern red maple, and it’s more suited to our climate than regular sugar maple (Acer saccharinum). Orange fall color isn't so easily obtained, so an effort to get one of these trees in your yard may have me saying to you, one day in the future, “orange you glad you planted a Florida maple?” Runner up: American Smoke Tree (Cotinus obovatus)
PHOTO LEFT: Florida Sugar Maple







Best Yellow Overall – Pignut Hickory (Carya glabra) – Deep banana yellow is how I’d describe its Fall color. This big tree makes an impressive statement. Pignut hickory is rarely found for sale in nurseries, so if you have one in your yard, consider keeping for its bold autumn statement . Runner up: Tulip poplar (Lirodendron tulipifera)
PHOTO ABOVE: Pignut Hickory

Best Late Color - Red Oak (Quercus rubra) - So many oaks to chose from! But red oak is definitely one of the better oaks for superior fall color. You'll have to wait, however, as the deep red colors don't show themselves until well into November. Runner up: A testament to it's long show of fall color- Dogwood (Cornus florida)

PHOTO RIGHT: Red Oak









Special award:
Best Fall color from a tree no one wants – Sweet gum (Liquidambar styracifula) – Sure, those prickly gum balls are a nuisance. You wouldn’t want to have one growing near your parking area or next to a sidewalk. Remember your mom telling the tree man to not cut any dogwoods down, but to “take out that ugly sweet gum!”? Faults aside, sweet gums do have great fall color. They are the “crazy uncle at family gatherings” of trees. Look up and enjoy! Yellows, reds, purples…it’s all there; just be careful not to trip over a gum ball when admiring them. Runner up: Popcorn tree (Robinia pseudocasia)


PHOTO LEFT: Sweet Gum













My apologies to the trees, very worthy of acclaim, which didn’t receive an award.

Top Ten Crape Myrtle No-No's

Crape myrtles are popular in our region of the mid to lower South and rightfully so. Unlike the in vogue nature of plants such as Bradford pear and Leyland cypress, crape myrtles actually have positive ornamental characteristics that far outweigh any negatives associated with this Southern horticultural heavyweight. Among the characteristics that have many wanting at least one crape myrtle in their yard are the distinctively showy blooms, the exfoliating bark that ultimately reveal an often colorful muscular trunk, and the superb fall foliage that can range from delicate yellows to intense reds. When it comes to negatives, the crepe myrtle itself can usually be held without blame. Many times, it is the owner of the crape myrtle that has committed the no-no, and so, without delay, here is my list of the Top Ten Crape Myrtle No-No's:

PHOTO: Nachez crape myrtle - possibly the most used and well-known of all crape myrtle varieties.














10. Selecting a plant that requires massive pruning to fit into it's space - Today's crape myrtle is much different than those that our parents enjoyed. We have a multitude of varieties available to us with enhanced cold tolerance, improved insect and disease resistance, and most importantly, we have crape myrtle varieties that, at maturity, grow as small as one foot tall, to giants that can reach 40' tall. With all these choices, it is upon the designer/installer to chose the appropriate plant. For instance, if you have a space where you want a white crape myrtle that grows to about 10' tall, then you should be looking for a semi-dwarf variety. Named crape myrtles usually are tagged with information that tells you how large they are going to grow or you can do a little research online and find out what varieties fit the parameters you've set up. When looking for a white crape myrtle that grows 10' tall at maturity, you don't want to buy a Nachez, for instance. Nachez crape myrtles will grow over 30' tall and will quickly become too large for your space. The better choice would be one of the white semi-dwarf crape myrtles, like Acoma.
9. Buying a plant labeled red or white or pink or purple - I've seen this from time to time. A crape myrtle simply tagged, "pink". This is a sure sign that you are probably not purchasing an improved variety and it is your guess as well as anyone else's as to how large it's going to grow. Your best bet is to steer clear and seek out a named variety.

8. Not buying a plant that is insect or disease resistant - Insect and disease has, in the past, been quite the bugaboo for crape myrtles. Aphids and powdery mildew were among the most bothersome agents of doom when it came to crape myrtle decline. Now, with improved varieties available to the public, you can pretty much purchase crape myrtles secure in the thought that they will grow well and you won't be treating them every growing season. Of course, the disclaimer is: nothing is absolute and sure as I talk about improved insect and disease resistance, there are isolated cases. Crape myrtle lists are out there that will signify certain varieties as being more hardy than others if you really want to cover all your bases.

PHOTO: Tuscarora crape myrtle - Here it is used as a street tree. Tuscarora crape myrtles will grow to 20' tall by 15' wide and have huge flower panicles (12" by 8") that are dark coral pink for about 70 days during the summer. Nachez, Tuscarora, Tonto, Souix and a score of other crape myrtles are from what is referred to as the Indian series. This series of crape myrtles is readily available at reputable nurseries and are highly recommended.







7. Improper spacing - When planting a grouping of crape myrtles, attention should be paid to spacing. One characteristic of crape myrtle that can be enjoyed is the graceful branching habit. A way to diminish this characteristic is to plant too closely together and planting too closely together inhibits air circulation (which is helpful in fending off disease) and makes the landscape appear cluttered. As I've mentioned, every crape myrtle has a mature height it will grow to, but they also have a range that they will grow to in width. For example, Acoma crape myrtles are usually listed as growing to about 8' - 10' high and to about 10' - 12' wide. So, if you are planting a grouping of three Acoma crape myrtles, you probably don't want to plant them closer than 10' or 12' apart.
6. Planting in too much shade - I've seen crepe myrtles growing in too much shade and they always look unhappy (yes, I occasionally think of plants as having human emotions :-)). Now, a crape myrtle will grow nicely in just a little shade, but know that the more shade it is subjected to, the fewer number of blooms you will have, the less foliage you will have during the growing season, and the more the crape myrtle will grow leaning toward the sunlight.
5. Not keeping your crape myrtles pruned up - As you will see when you get to rule No. 1, I am not a big fan of pruning crape myrtles. I do, however, encourage limbing up and the removal of dead and intersecting branches. The limbing up process does not apply so much to the more dwarf and shrub varieties of crape myrtle and much as they do to crape myrtles that you want to look like multi-trunk or single trunk trees. The limbing up procedure is where you take smaller limbs growing out from a main trunk and prune them off flush with the main trunk. These limbs are typically going to be located on the bottom 1/3 of the plant and, when removed, give the crape myrtle more of a tree-form appearance. Also, removing dead limbs and branches that intersect, rubbing against each other, is a way to improve the overall health and attractiveness of the crape myrtle.
4. Underplanting with too much plant - I most definitely encourage underplanting crape myrtles, especially when they are planted in natural areas or as part of a foundation planting. What you want to avoid, though, is underplanting with material that overwhelms the crepe myrtle. For example, large hollies or conifers don't look good under crape myrtles. Try using low growing plant material to plant under a crape myrtle. Ground covers and other low growing plants are great to plant under crape myrtles (Asiatic jasmine, English ivy, Autumn fern, dwarf azalea, etc.).
3. Clashing colors - When it comes to crape myrtles, too much of a good thing isn't necessarily good. Typically, in my landscape designs, I may have a singular crape myrtle plant or perhaps a grouping of several crape myrtles of one variety, but rarely do I incorporate multiple crape myrtle plantings of different varieties. If you have a grouping of red crape myrtles in your yard, for instance, and you insist on going with another grouping of a different color crepe myrtle, you might avoid using purple. More importantly, I would keep in mind the colors in your landscape in relation to when and where your crape myrtle is blooming. For instance, you may not want to plant summer blooming yellow hypericum under your Souix crape myrtle unless you enjoy the interplay between a medium pink and yellow. Opinions about colors in the landscape are of a subjective nature and all I can do is offer my opinion. I lean toward what I'd call "kinder combinations" with white being the great equalizer. I prefer using different shades of pink together or white with just about any other color. I'm OK with magenta combined with pink while I try to stay away from purples with red, lavenders and pinks with yellow, etc.

PHOTO: Chickasaw crape myrtle - a dwarf variety. This established plant from an Auburn University research center in about 2' tall.


2. Having a rogue crape myrtle - Seeing a planting of 4 pink crape myrtles and 1 purple one is more of a pet peeve for me than anything and it is often beyond the buyer's control. Sometimes plants simply get tagged incorrectly. With crape myrtles, when you are buying a group of one variety, take the time to examine each plant, even if they are tagged the same. You can sometimes spot a rogue plant by noticing that its habit of growth is different from the others or the leaves seem to be of different size or, if it is fall, that the fall color of one plant is different from the others. Still, if you realize that you've got a wrong colored crape myrtle....please! Replace it!!! (How's that for drama?).
1. Crape Murder - Who ever came up with that saying has given landscape professionals a catch phrase for the ages. And why not? When you top a crape myrtle, you are acknowledging that your crape myrtle was not properly selected or that you are a status quoer! (I just invented a word!!!). If you are a crape murderer, I still love you. I just don't want you within a mile of my yard if you have pruners on your body. :)

The Father's Day Plant

Early on, I decided to honor my dad with a unique gift for Father's Day that had that "landscape dude" angle. There was no Father's Day plant that I knew of, so I invented one. Well, I didn't create a new plant in my basement with vials of bubbling brew.


Bwah Ha Ha Ha Ha!!!!

I found a plant that was in bloom on Father's Day and renamed it "The Father's Day Plant". My biggest challenge was in finding a plant in bloom in mid-June that didn't already have a very recognizable common name. I wasn't going to rename daylily, crepe myrtle or rose. I mean, really...is a dainty pink rose an appropriate plant to call "The Father's Day Plant"? Not my pop! In the case of my dad, I could have renamed the Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior). After all, my dad is strong and solid as cast iron!






Just like my dad...The Cast Iron Plant (see photo, right)

In the end, I decided to rename a plant that doesn't have a real recognizable common name, the lilac chaste tree; scientific name, Vitex agnus-castus (this re-naming is really only legitimate in my own myopic world, of course, but I encourage you to use it, as well). I've planted a few for my dad over the years (just about one for every house he's lived in the past 25 years).


The Father's Day Plant bloom is blue flower spikes (a white flowering variety is also available)(see photo, left).




I'm sure I'll be planting another for him, soon. I'm just waiting to make sure he isn't going to try to move from his current home within the next week or so. Just kidding, Dad!


Father's Day Plant - grown as a small tree (10'-15' by 8'-12'), typically multi-trunked. Zone 6 - 9.(photo right).

Happy Father's Day, Dad!!!!

A brisk, sunny day in Vestavia, Alabama

A very nice couple and long time clients of mine allowed me to plant some of my favorite plants for them a few years back. Today, I stopped by to do some pruning and thought I'd take some pictures of a few of the plants that were looking especially nice.


When it comes to pruning, I try to make my cuts in such a way as to promote the health and looks of the plant. I'm a big believer in hand pruning (with my trusty Felco pruners) as opposed to using shears, electric or otherwise, because you have so much more flexibility. If you are trying to get a natural looking pruning job when pruning Hydrangeas, for instance, shears are just not going to get the desired effect. Even with hollies such as these Needlepoint hollies in the picturee above, using hand pruners allows you to make cuts deeper inside the plant while still maintaining a manicured look, if that is the desired result as it was with these. And as always, I do my best to prune in such a way as to have plants such as these stay bushy all the way to the ground. This is what you want when pruning plants along your foundation or fence. Much of the same principles go for the pruning I did on the Green Robusta junipers, as well, except fot the exception of making deep cuts. With almost all conifers, such as cypresses, cedars, and junipers, you've got to be careful not to prune into wood that is too thick. They just don't respond well to heavy pruning.

OK, enough on pruning! Here are a few plants at this Vestavia home that I thought you might enjoy seeing:

Green lace-leaf Japanese maple. I planted this plant about 5 years ago. As I remember, it was a two gallon plant and was probably no more than 2' tall by 2' wide when I planted it. It is slow growing, but has managed to grow nearly 4' tall by 6' wide. Red varieties of Japanese maples get all the love at the local nurseries, but the green fellas have a lot to offer, as well, including outstanding fall color and a nice contrast to other plants such as these Parson junipers that are planted around it.


Lady Banks rose is a thorn less rose that is well suited for trellises and training on walls. The garage door was such a big part of the front of this home that we felt something growing up and over it would help provide a soft effect. Lady Banks rose only blooms once a year, in the spring, but the flower show lasts for a good three or four weeks and the plant is evergreen. Another good reason to consider it. The homeowner has done a very good job of keeping it growing over the garage doors (in this case, with masonry nails and ties) and it requires some pruning of limbs when they hang too low. Lady Banks rose is available in yellow and white blooming forms.



And finally, the ol' standby for what to use as a small tree in a small yard has to be Bloodgood Japanese maple. When I planted this tree five years ago, it was probably about four or five feet tall with limited branching. One key to the success of any tree planted in a turf situation is to create a mulch ring or mulched natural area around the tree which eliminates mower or weed trimmer damage. As far as pruning goes, I occasionally remove lower branches so mowing isn't a hassle and to allow light to the grass below. There are lots and lots of worthy upright red Japanese maple varieties to chose from and Bloodgood is certainly the grand daddy of them all and continues to be a great choice for the landscape.

An American Treat

As you are driving about during the remaining few weeks of winter, look out into the woods (preferably, as a passenger!), and notice one tree that has a specific characteristic that really catches your eye. I’m talking about American Beech (Fagus grandiflora). The eye catching characteristic is its winter leaf. Peering into a typically bare deciduous forest, American Beech catches your eye because they are so prevalent and easy to identify. This is so because American Beech trees hang on to most of last year’s leaves all the way through until spring when new growth pushes them off.

A close-up of Fagus grandiflora in leaf w/ fruit

Winter leaves of American Beech are very pretty, I think. The graceful, light tan leaves stand out and in the local woods here in Birmingham (they are native in the Eastern half of the US), where Beeches are so prevalent, the sight can become somewhat mesmerizing. American beech isn’t the only tree to hold on to its leaves through out the winter. Several oak tree varieties and other trees do so, as well, but not with the flair and beauty of the American Beech. So, be on the look out! American Beech trees can grow to 60’. They like acidic soil, which is exactly what we have in many parts of Central Alabama. It can be a difficult tree to transplant, so I advise purchasing one in a container, if you are considering planting one in your yard. Also, when hiking in some of our state parks, you'll often see where people (I'm not going to get on my high horse and say what I think of these people) have carved messages into trees. These trees are often American Beech trees.
Other ornamental characteristics include its gorgeous smooth grey bark, light green summer leaves and bronze fall color.




"See how pretty I am
without initials inside
a heart and Cupid's
arrow etched on me!"